In a time where there are fences around everything, and we are denied the instinct of self‐preservation, it is difficult to find a place free from rules and restrictions, but not yet impossible. Surf movies come and go, a million waves in exotic locations and surfers flown in for three‐day shoots on perfect swells, but the spirit of adventure never dies. What began as a three‐month trip to a collection of surf breaks off the beaten track turned into a two‐year odyssey of exploration, injury, com...